DIY Amethyst Crystal Soap

July 10, 2020

Are You Mesmerized by Crystal Soaps Like I Am?

In this tutorial, I’m going to teach you how you can DIY your OWN amethyst crystal soap! Admittedly, I am not the first person in line for a new trend or craze.  I try my best, but by and large, I’m perfectly happy in my craft room making cards and soap and minding my own business.  Sometimes, however, a craze comes along and slaps me in the face, like this one.  Crystal soaps??!?  Is it really a soap?  Can I use it?  Does it smell like a rock?

The answers are yes, yes, yes, and no.   Of quartz not, don’t be silly. 🙂

When I first saw a crystal amethyst soap on Pinterest I couldn’t sleep because I was so anxious to get up the next day and try it.  I dreamt about what mine would smell like, and how I would get the inside to look like it contained secrets and mysteries.

Look into my eyes…

Single large amethyst crystal soap close up

I was mesmerized.  If you have never seen one and this blog post and tutorial are your first introduction to an amethyst crystal soap, and you are currently scratching your head trying to figure out how in the world this comes to be?  

Welcome.  You’ve come to the right place. 🙂

What Kind of Supplies Do I Need?

Crafts in general are kind of a supply-heavy hobby, and soap making is among the more supply-heavy of the supply-heavy endeavors.  So, a DIY soap project can be kind of a nightmare, but this amethyst crystal soap DIY can get pretty basic if you just want to try it out.

I’ll break out for you below what you really need, and what you can do to makeshift some stuff from home.

One thing is pretty non-negotiable.  You need some soap base.

Crystal Clear Melt and Pour Soap Base

Basically, you have cold processed soap, hot processed soap, and rebatch soap which are all derived from some combination of lye and oils.  That’s how you make soap.  Without lye and oils, you have no soap.  (I did a whole DIY soap basics tutorial, which I will link for you here).  

On the flip side of the DIY soap spectrum, you have melt and pour soap.  The pesky lye business has already been done for you…so you can avoid the scary parts and still do some of the fun creative parts.

Cold processed soap ultimately provides more flexibility for design and texture and additives, etc., but melt and pour has a clear place in my mind, and THIS PROJECT is one of them.

You cannot DIY an amethyst crystal soap by starting with a smooth, creamy, opaque oil and lye concoction.  We need clear melt and pour soap to develop a really convincing crystal!

What Kind of Crystal Melt and Pour Soap, You Ask?

I like the Stephenson Melt and Pour crystal soap base, but it’s not the easiest thing to get your hands on without a lot of shipping cost.  In the ingredients list at the bottom of this post, I will include several different options for you to help find alternatives.  

I buy mine from because the pricing is good, but you have shipping to deal with.  Since I was ordering other stuff too, shipping wasn’t a big deal.  Amazon sells it (link below) but in my opinion, it’s twice as expensive as it should be.  

To help combat this,  I’ve also recommended another brand option below from Wholesale Supplies Plus, which will send you anything you want shipped free once your order hits $25.  I’ve also given you links to colorants and fragrance that could get you to that free shipping point if you want to go that route.

Stephenson melt and pour crystal base

IF YOU WANT, you could just buy the one supply.  You could follow this tutorial and remove all of the steps related to coloring things and making them smell nice.  Even with only one supply, you’d still end up with a beautiful clear crystal soap with all of the lovely facets inside!

Some Kind of Molds, Which Could Be A Milk Carton and An Ice Cube Tray

There is an entire school of thought regarding molds and what you need to buy, but that’s probably an entire blog post on it’s own.

With melt and pour soap, you have a lot more options for molds.  If you aren’t going to be making a bunch of soap, and you’re just trying this tutorial out because i’ve mesmerized you with my intro photo (I get it, been there), you probably don’t need to go buy a soap mold.

Look around your house and see what you have that would work.  Obviously you don’t want something too big, because then you need a ton of soap to fill it.  And you want something at least as tall as you want your crystals to be.  I was thinking a standard quart-sized milk carton would do the trick.  You could cut one of the long sides off, line it with freezer paper so it will release well, and use that! 

Alternatively, you could use some gladware or similar containers that were deep enough to get the job done.  My point is, look around the house if you don’t want the investment of a soap mold.

You will also need some smaller kind of mold, so look around for one of those too…an ice cube tray?  A jewelry box you could line?  Or a smaller gladware container?

Soap Colorant

I’ll put some soap colorant options for your in the supply list below (again, less expensive and more convenient options!).  

Typically, I use mica powders because I LOVE how shimmery they get in melt and pour soap. See?

Liquid soap colorant (also linked below) is an option.  There are some people who will tell you you can use food coloring.  I honestly haven’t tried it, but it makes me nervous.  If you try it and it works, let me know! Once I’ve invested a chunk of money into a 2lb block soap base, I don’t see the point potentially ruining it with a food coloring.  

In for a penny, in for a pound, or in this case, 2lbs. 🙂

melt and pour shimmering

Some Stuff From Your House

Ordinarily, I would say never mix your soap making supplies with your kitchen supplies, but since melt and pour soap is already soap, using your kitchen supplies is akin to rubbing them on dish soap….no hard, no foul.

The above is true, of course, provided you are just making soap for yourself or for gifts….if you plan to sell them, don’t be nasty. 🙂

You will need a cutting board, some kind of straight edged knife, a container to melt your soap in (I was lazy and used the Stephenson soap container…but let’s just call that “recycling” ;)), and it helps if you have a vegetable peeler as a finishing tool.

Finally, some 91% rubbing alcohol in a little spray bottle would be helpful.  Rubbing alcohol keeps your soap sections from separating from one another.  It’s good to spray in between pouring layers.

Amethyst Crystal Soap - Step by Step

As with many of my tutorials, there is a video link below that will walk you through all of the steps.  It’s about 30 minutes long, BUT it covers 2 different designs of amethyst crystal soap.

What I realized was that after I carved all the sides off of this big soap

Big amethyst crystal soap

I had a bunch of shards leftover and could make a little amethyst crystal garden soap.  I’m not sure what else to call it…so that’s what I’m calling it.

Crystal garden soap bar

First, Cut Up Most of Your Soap Block Into Cubes

We’re going to melt (and pour!) a bunch of it, so I went with about 75% cut into approx I inch cubes.  Save the rest for the next step.

I used a crinkle cutter for this part because I find it easier to work with, but you can totally just use a straight edged knife.

Cube melt and pour

Cut the Remaining Soap Into Smaller Randomly-Sized Pieces

You want to end up with a nice assortment of sizes and shapes.  These pieces are what is going to make up the insides of your soap and make it look like facets on the inside.  It’s important here that you cut this part of the soap with a straight-sided blade.  You want nice clean edges so they look more like crystals.

More variety seems to equal more places for the light to catch on the inside and make it sparkle!

I ended up with a variety like this, which I put into a container.  Any container will do, these are not going to be melted.

Melt the Cubed Soap and Pour Some Into A Container to Color It

Now that we’ve made the clear shards, it’s time to make some purple shard too.

Take some of your melt and pour cubes and put them in a microwave safe container.  Melt them on 30 second bursts until fully melted.  This typically takes somewhere between 2-3 minutes, depending on how much soap I am melting at once. 

Take a small amount of melted soap and put it into a side container.  Add some liquid soap dye or mica powder until you get a shade of purple that you like.  Light purple mica was my choice (also linked below for you).

Light purple mica from Nurture Soap

I poured my light purple into a large ice cube mold.  You can use anything here…you’re going to cut these up too, so it doesn’t matter what size they are.

Pouring lilac purple soap into ice cube tray

I poured about half of it and went back to add some more color to make some a little darker.  My soap thickened up on me considerably (which is easier to see in the video) but I crammed it into the mold anyway knowing I was just going to cut it up and it would be fine!

Cramming seized soap into mold

Leave these to firm up for a bit…mine took about 30 minutes.

Add Fragrance and Pour A Base

You probably need to re-melt your clear soap, so do that first, again on 30 second bursts.

This is the time to add a fragrance.  I provided the link below to the fragrance I used, which is a dupe of the Lush fragrance Avobath, which I love.  It’s a beautiful fresh lemongrass primarily.  I’ve also given you an Amazon alternative if you want convenient.

Each fragrance will have its own level of skin safe use, so make sure to check with the provider to see how much you are allowed to add.  There is typically a fragrance calculator or similar that will help you determine how much to add to the amount of soap you have.  You’ve already removed a big chunk of it for shards, but you probably have about 60% of your 2lb block left to fragrance. 

Give your mold a little spritz with your rubbing alcohol, and pour a layer about an inch thick on the bottom of your mold.

Add fragrance at a safe level

Give your mold a little spritz with alcohol…

Spritz mold with alcohol

And pour in a layer about an inch thick.

Pour about an inch thick layer of soap

Give it another spray to pop the air bubbles on top. Set it aside and let it cool a bit.  You’ll want to see it form a skin on top…

Optional: Add Some Sparkles to Your Shards!

It felt like a good opportunity for glitter, so I took it.  I have this beautiful super-sparkly cosmetic grade enviro-glitter from Nurture Soap (it’s called Super Sparkles, so they really broke the brain trust coming up with that name), but it’s some really good stuff.

I basically scooped some out with a popsicle stick and stirred them around in my shards until they were all lightly coated, like this:

Super sparkles added to clear soap shards

Add Your Crustal Soap Shards and Cap with Clear Melted Soap

Now that your inch-thick layer of soap in your mold has cooled a little, you likely have something that looks like this…a thin skin on top, but liquid underneath.

Skin forming on cooled soap base


Add in a few of your shards to make sure they aren’t going to melt.  If they survive, add all of the rest of them into your mold.

If they melt, give your soap base a few more minutes to cool, then try again.

Add crystal soap shards to mold

Once you have done that, your remaining soap can all be colored purple. I again went with kind of a medium purple…definitely not so dark that you can’t see the shards peeking through.

I chose a liquid soap colorant for this, mostly because I didn’t think I needed more sparkles (! what!?!) and because I thought this would be slightly darker and provide yet another shade of purple to keep it exciting.

liquid soap colorant in grape

Cut Your Purple Soap Cubes into Shards

Once your purple cubes have firmed up, use the same straight sided knife you used to cut the clear shards, and make yourself a variety of purple shards.

I had obviously made 2 colors of shards, so my mixture looked like this when I was finished.

Mixture of purple shards

Pour Remaining Melted Soap and Purple Shards into Mold

Your melted soap you colored purple should now be plenty cool to pour on top of your clear shards without melting them (assuming your purple was sitting and waiting while you cut your purple shards).



Pour a half inch layer of purple soap into the mold until the clear shards are covered.  Then add all of your purple shards.

Added purple melted soap and purple shards to mold


Cover them with your remaining purple soap.  If you want to make a base and have some dark mica (or want to just use more purple colorant), save a little for the base.

I decided I wanted to add a grey base so it might look kind of like stone on the underside of some amethysts.  I took some grey mica from Nurture Soap and made a pretty silver out of the remaining purple.

I sprayed the purple layer with rubbing alcohol and then poured in the grey.

Neutral Gray from Nurture Soap
All soap poured into loaf mold

Unmold Your Beautiful Block of Amethyst Crystal!

For me, this is always the hardest part of any soap project.  Waiting a few hours before you can unmold it and see.

If you’re like me, you’ll hold the thing up to the light and try to sneak a peek…but it’s a terrible idea to hold a heavy block of melted hot soap over your head, so don’t be like me. 🙂

See all of those beautiful sparkly shards?!?  I was in love.  I almost didn’t want to cut it!

But I did.

Cut the block into sizes that make sense for your mold and for the size you want your soaps to be.  Keep in mind that the size you cut determines the size of the BASE of your soap.  The top will be much smaller once you’re done shaving it.

Sliced giant blocks of crystal to carve

Next time, I will probably make smaller soaps…these were massive.

But the large size did make them easy to carve.  Take each soap and just start chopping away at it from the top down until you get a shape you like. 

Make sure you turn it around as you do this so you can get a look from  all sides. I used a vegetable peeler to make some of the more fine carve marks and create extra jagged edges.

Also make sure you don’t forget the bottom…it’s probably nice and flat from having been poured, but I roughed mine up a fair amount, for authenticity. 😉


Start carving from the top down
Use vegetable peeler for finer carvings
Don't forget the bottom
Finished group of large soaps
Finished group of large soaps from the top

I love how you can see the clear shards and the purple shards so distinctly.  

My Grandma would have described my reaction to these soaps as “tickled”.  I was really tickled. 🙂  I love them.

BUT.  I had a lot of leftover scraps from all that carving.  And then smell really good and it seems silly to waste them.  So, let me run you through the last solution, which got a couple more bars out of my batch (assuming you have any leftover clear or purple soap).

If You Have Leftover Soap, Try This!

Get a smaller soap mold
If you have a small bar mold, use that. If you don't maybe a small jewelry box or similarly sized object lined with freezer paper...
Pour melted soap halfway up mold
Pour your melted soap halfway up the mold. I colored my remaining soap purple again.
Place the leftover shards upright into your mold
Place the leftover shards upright in your mold. I put some in with the clear tip facing up and some in the other direction, depending on how they were cut. I tried to keep the larger part at the bottom.
Cover with remaining soap to fill bars
Use the rest of your melted soap, if it's not too hot, to pour on top of the shards to "glue" them into place and fill the molds more.

When mine had dried, I unmolded them and got these!  I’m not sure how easy they will be to actually use…

Unmolded amethyst crystal garden soap

Below is the link to the video tutorial, and below that is the link to my thoughts on supplies and where best to get them.  I’ve indicated which links are affiliate links, and despite the amount of Nurture Soap products in this post, I am not a Nurture Soap affiliate. 🙂 

Final Thoughts on Supplies and Getting Heavy Soap Bases

I will give you 3 options below.  The first option is what I believe is the least expensive option to get the job done.  Option #2 is what I think is the easiest (i.e. everything from Amazon). Finally, the third option is a list of all of the actual supplies that I used in this project in case there was something you particularly liked (like super sparkles!!). 

The links from Amazon are affiliate links, so if you make a purchase through those links, I may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you.  The links for Brambleberry, Wholesale Supplies Plus and Nurture Soap are not affiliate links. 
#1 – Least expensive:
Soap base from Wholesale Supplies Plus (the premium crystal clear version)  Depending on whether there is a sale, a 2lb container is typically between $6-$9.  By contrast, this same brand, Crafter’s Choice is $23 on Amazon, as I’m writing this post.  The real benefit to Wholesale Supplies Plus is free shipping for orders over $25….so I usually try to order all of my heavy soap ingredients from them! 
While you are there, you can check out some fragrance for your soap too, they have a really extensive selection.  There are some less expensive than this, but this fragrance is closest to the one that I used from Nuture Soap, which is a dupe of Lush’s Avobath:  They also have soap dye in small containers for around $1.  Here’s the purple one…you can vary the strength of your purple based on how much product you put in:, so you can make multiple shades of purple.  
If you want a soap mold so you don’t need to make your own mold from a milk carton or similar, this is a decent small mold:  Keep in mind that this mold holds over 40oz though, so your 2lb block of soap wouldn’t fill the mold completely.
#2 – Easiest one-stop shopping Amazon option:
The Stephenson base that I used is here:
Decent small mold:
Mica powder soap dye:
Liquid (non sparkly) soap dye:  (this is the least expensive pack I could find that included a purple. The actual one I bought was a multi-pack, which is below)
Fragrance:  This is the closest fragrance match to what I used (below) and what I linked (above), but fragrance is always up for interpretation and you can always leave it unscented.
Optional: some grey mica for the base
Optional: some sparkles to coat the soap shards
#3- My exact supplies:
Stephenson base:  The product itself is much less expensive than Amazon, but you’ll have to pay for shipping through Brambleberry.
Tall and skinny loaf mold:
Cubist black ice cube mold:
Mica powder set for dark scarlet color:

If you enjoyed this content, please consider signing up for my email list.  I will send notices about once a week, which is how often I post new projects!  You can sign up here: A Mandatory Activity Email List

Love, Amanda

The Basics of DIY Soap

May 15, 2020

Have You Ever Wondered How To Make Your Own Soap?

You know the soap I’m talking about…you pick it up at a Whole Foods, or a craft show, or a farmers market and think about how cool it is, and you think “Can I do that?”  Let’s run through some of the basics for DIY soap making.  

Making soap is no joke…it’s complicated, it involves a toxic ingredient, and you don’t get the immediate satisfaction that you can get with other crafts.  

But man, I’m tellin’ you, when you pull that loaf of soap out of your mold, it is Satisfying (capital S for emphasis). 🙂 BUT, it is totally doable with some DIY soap basics, and we’re going to review safety, process, supplies, the works.

Here is the soap that I made for this tutorial.  It’s not fancy, but it’s not not-fancy either.   The moment when you take your soap out of the mold is kind of “the reveal”.  Either your heart sings, or sinks.

But let’s talk about how we get here.

Soap coming out of the soap mold

First Things First. And Safety is First.

Unfortunately, I can’t tell you that learning how to make soap is something that you can casually try with little equipment.  You CAN get away with items from around the house to use for molds, but there is no getting around safety gear.  BASIC.

That being said, let me address the gloves in the photo above.  Normally, you would want some proper nitrile gloves, but I don’t have any more at the moment and we’re in the middle of a pandemic and gloves are hard to come by.  Even if I found some, I’m not sure I’d feel great about buying them knowing we have as shortage of PPE at the moment, but let’s not get too far off-topic, Amanda.  So…I got some new dish gloves instead.  I’m not nimble, but I’m protected!

You will need some goggles, no question about it.  

No, it is not okay to just wear your glasses.  

BASICS OF DIY SOAP TIP: You must also get rid of any amount of vanity that you may have had before you started your soaping adventure.  

You will look like a crazy person. 

And because I no longer have any vanity, I get to show you these pictures. 🙂

Soap making safety gear on!
Purposely making crazy person eyes while holding lye container


Now, I’m purposefully giving you crazy-eyes for this picture of me cradling my bottle of lye, but I do feel like once you get your goggles on, it’s easy to take on an alter ego…and I guess mine is just  a little bit nuts. 

Bottom line here is put your gloves on, wear your safety goggles, cover any exposed skin, wear closed-toed shoes, and keep the floor clear of any slipping or tripping hazards. 

Let's Talk About Lye

You NEED lye to make real soap.  And frankly, lye is the reason I didn’t try making soap earlier. 

I was afraid. 

Lye is the thing that we are working so hard to protect ourselves from.  Lye is sodium hydroxide and it’s very very toxic.  It will burn you. Even in the video attached I’m too busy talking and took a breath that was a little too deep and felt the hairs inside of my nose start to burn off.  The biggest  most basic DIY soap tip is to be careful with your lye.

I mean, BE CAREFUL WITH YOUR LYE.  If you have any Mr. Yuck stickers hanging around from the 80’s, put them all over your lye container.

If you’re like me, your only previous knowledge of lye is that it’s what people use to dissolve dead bodies in the movies.  Incidentally, when I ordered my lye, I accidentally ordered WAY too much…so I’m pretty sure I’m on some Government watch list (for people who might be dissolving bodies?  Is that a thing?)

Lye is essential.  Soap is, at it’s core, the product of oils/fats and lye.  Anything else we do to it (fragrance, skin-loving butters, colorant, flecks of ground up coffee beans…whatever) is the artistry.  

Making soap is often described as both an art and a science.  Once you get the science part down, that’s when you get to be artistic.  You do NOT get to be artistic with your safety equipment or your handling of lye. 

You should also make sure all of the bowls and spoons and equipment used for soaping is not shared with any kitchen processes.  You need dedicated soaping dishes, and you must never ever use any aluminum spoons or bowls when mixing your soap.  The reaction with lye, I’m told, is quite dangerous.  I’ve never tried it and I’m certainly not going to for the purpose of this blog post, BUT it’s a good DIY soap basic tip!

Get A Good Soap Recipe

It will come as no surprise to you that there are a number of excellent resources for soap recipes online and in print.  My favorite go-to for soap instruction, ingredients, tools, best practices, troubleshooting, and inspiration is Anne-Marie Faiola of  Her website is a wealth of information on the basics of DIY soap.

This is going to sound like some kind of sponsored post, but it’s not.  She just knows everything and sells everything and has been soaping for 20 years (even though she looks about 30 years old…).  I also have her book, Pure Soapmaking, which I find very inspirational. The link to the book IS an affiliate link because I am an Amazon affiliate…so if you buy it, thanks!

Pure Soapmaking by Anne-Marie Faiola
Pure Soapmaking by Anne-Marie Faiola

It’s fabulous and has more than a dozen solid soap recipes, along with a lot of explanations of what kind of oil and fat combinations work well together and combine well with things like goats milk or coconut milk, or whatever artistic thing you want to do once you’ve mastered the science bits.

Another favorite soaper is Katie Carson of Royalty Soaps.  She shares her base soap recipe, but she also does a lot of elaborate soap “frosting”, and I’ve recently joined her soap frosting club, so I’m excited to try my hand at piping soap!

Both of those are my best two pieces of advice for where I go for recipe info that is reliable and informative.

Making Soap: The Process

I have, of course, included a tutorial video for you on how I made this batch of soap, but I will also include some photos below of the highlights of the process.  I am still making small batches, but I’d like to graduate to more meaningful batch sizes some day.  For now, I’m working on science and artistry, but not volume…

Mix Lye and Water Per the Amounts in Your Recipe

Measure out lye into glass container
On a kitchen scale, weigh out the lye into a glass bowl. DO NOT EVER USE ALUMINUM when using lye. The two will interact negatively with one another...
Mix lye into water
Slowly and gently mix the lye into the appropriate amount of water until it is dissolved. I like to do this in small amounts so I can check to make sure it's dissolved little by little.
Lye water solution gets hot!
Lye water solution gets HOT. The water was room temperature and got up to about 200 degrees. Once it's fully mixed together, it needs to cool.

Mix Oils and Fats Per the Amounts in Your Recipe

Brambleberry quick mix lather
Your recipe will come with ratios for all of your oils, but I chose to buy the lots of lather quick mix from Bramblerry. DO NOT be fooled by the word "mix". It's not a mix of anything crazy, it's just the oils for this recipe all measured out into the correct percentages!
Brambleberry oils melted
The Brambleberry bag of oils can just be popped into the microwave to be heated. Super simple and great for beginners. I personally love it because it allows me to focus on lye safety, not measuring and storing gallons of oils.
Oils go into a bowl
Measure out the correct weight of oils on your kitchen scale into another bowl. The oils will also need to cool as the lye water solution is cooling.

Incorporate the Lye Water Into the Oils

It is said that every soaper has their own opinion about the correct temperature to cool your lye and oils to.  Some soapers prefer to do it hot, at about 130 degrees, others prefer to do it cool, about about 85 degrees.  I tend to hover around the middle and I cooled my lye water and oils to about 115 degrees.  Whatever your preferred soaping temperature, your lye and oils should be within 10 degrees of one another.

Pour lye water down shaft of stick blender
You still have on all of your safety gear, right? Using a stick blender (aka immersion blender) pour the lye water gently down the shaft of the blender. This helps keep it from splashing as it hits the surface of the oils.
Pulse oils and lye until emulsion
Once the lye water is in, you need to combine them. Be careful not to splash up oil and lye with your stick blender. A gentle pulse for 10 second bursts is a good start. You want to combine to just past emulsion. The more you blend, the thicker your soap will get and the harder it will be to work don't overdo it with the stick blending!
Here's where terminology gets really soapy! What you are looking for is something called TRACE. You can see here (and more in the video) where the dribbles from the stick blender are leaving behind a line in the soap batter? That's trace. This is thin trace, but the more the soap sets up, you will move into medium trace and thick trace.

Add Fragrance and Colorants

Prepare colorant
Your recipe will tell you whether you need to disperse your colorant (meaning you take a powder and mix it with water or oils to make it a paste or liquid before adding it to your soap batter).
Add fragrance oils
This is typically a good time to add fragrance oils or essential oils. You will have an amount specified in your recipe. Also, some fragrances and colorant can accelerate trace, so be prepared to work quickly for these last few steps! I stick blended a little far, so my trace was getting thick, so I chose to incorporate my fragrance by hand to keep it from speeding up further.
Color sparingly, you can't go back
Add your colorant sparingly. You can always add more (well, quickly) but you can't take it away. I am also stirring in my color by hand to avoid accelerating trace further.

Pour Into Your Molds and Embellish if Desired!

Pour soap into mold
Gently pour your soap batter into your molds. Use a spatula or other implement to push the batter into the corners that may have been missed by the pour.
Texture between pour layers if desired
For this recipe, I did three layers of green. In between each layer, I ran my spatula through the batter as it was firming up. I wanted to give it some ridges for the next layer to sink into.
Embellish the top of the mold
Finally, you can add texture to the top, or a swirl pattern with a skewer or whatever your heart desires. I went with some dried chrysanthemum flowers from Brambleberry. They have a lot of different dried flower varieties!

Spray With Rubbing Alcohol, WAIT, Unmold, and Cut!

Spray with 99% rubbing alcohol
Put your mold somewhere with some ventilation, but where it won't get jostled. Spray the top with 99% rubbing alcohol to help break any air bubbles and help prevent ash from forming on the surface.
After it has rested for about 2 days, you can unmold it. Make sure to leave your gloves on. Even though the oils and lye have gone through a chemical process, your soap won't be safe to use for 4-6 weeks.
Slice soap into bars and cure
Cut your loaf of soap into bars and cure them somewhere with good ventilation for 4-6 weeks.

Some Final Thoughts On The Remainder of the Process

Once the oils and lye have sat for 1-2 days, they go through a chemical process known as saponification.  As the soap is still curing, it’s best to wear your gloves (and if you’re going to be giving it away or selling it, it’s sanitary that way too!), to avoid any irritation to your skin.

I find waiting to unmold the soap to be incredibly hard.  I guess I’m used to more instant gratification from my craft projects, but I did feel an enormous sense of accomplishment when I unmolded the loaf and it looked lovely with it’s bumpy layers from the texture we provided with our spatula during the layering of the soap.

So, the process is time consuming, you need a lot of supplies, and you need even more patience.  But the idea what you have made your own soap, full of good skin-loving oils and your own design, is very empowering and addictive.  

Once you watch a few Brambleberry and Royalty Soaps videos you’ll be hooked, just like me!

I will paste the links to the items used here below.  Again, the only affiliate link is the link to the book via Amazon.

Finally, the Link to the Video Tutorial!

Materials used for this project are listed below.  Some links are affiliate links, and if you make a purchase through one of these links, I may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you.  If you do, thank you in advance for your support of this blog.


Pure Soapmaking by Anne-Marie Faiola

Happy soaping!

Love, Amanda

I'm Amanda, and I put the AMANDA in A MANDAtory Activity (and I like a good bad pun). This blog is a focused on baking and crafting for gatherings and gifts! I LOVE making things a little extra special and I love sharing those ideas with you. Have a look around, or read more here.


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Want handmade gifts but don't have time to DIY?

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The Best Machine for DIY Projects
Grow and Make

Happy Crafter

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